Please remember, you will still need the original Santa Gonk pattern to follow these free add on accessories. If you haven't already purchased your copy, you can find it here: SANTA GONK
or in my Ravelry store here: RAVELRY SANTA GONK
This crochet pattern is written and designed by Ling Ryan for Hooked On Patterns. Copyright of this pattern belongs to Ling Ryan/Hooked On Patterns. You are not permitted to copy, share, upload or redistribute this pattern in any way, this includes making video tutorials. It is for personal use only. You may sell products you have personally created from using this pattern, mass production is not permitted. You must credit Ling Ryan or Hooked On Patterns.com as the designer if you do sell your finished products. Full T&Cs. Thank you.
Start with the shoulder armour. Beginning chains are not counted as stitches unless otherwise stated. Using Grey yarn start with chaining 38 and sl st into beginning to form a circle,
R1. ch1, sc x12, [sc, ch1, sc], sc x5, [sc, ch1, sc], sc x12, [sc, ch1, sc], sc x5, [sc, ch1, sc], (46)
R2. sl st x13, sc in the ch1 sp, sk 2, dc x7 in the next st, sk 2, sc x2, [sc, ch1, sc] in the ch1 sp, sk1, sl st x13, [sc, ch1, sc] in the ch1 sp, sc x2, sk 2, dc x7 in the next st, sk2, sc in the ch1 sp, sl st into the first st again to join, fasten off Grey yarn. (52)
You will have 4 sides: front, back and two shoulder blades.
R3. Join Brown yarn in the same st of last join, working into the top stitches of R1. beneath the sl sts made in R2.,
ch3 (counts as first dc st), dc in the same st as join, dc x11, 2dc (this is the back), ch7 and skip the side shoulder blade section continuing along the other side (front) beneath the slip stitches, 2sc, sc x11, 2sc, ch7 and skip the other shoulder blade section, sl st into top of beginning ch3 to join (44)
R4. ch1, hdc in same st below ch, hdc in each st around, sl st into first hdc to join (44)
R5. This round will be worked in the back bars of the previous hdc stitches to push the top stitches to the front giving a decorative line,
ch1, sc in the back bar of st below, sc in each back bar around, sl st into first sc to join, (44)
R6. ch1, hdc in same st below ch, hdc in each st around, sl st into first hdc to join, fasten off Brown yarn. (44)
R7. Join Grey yarn to the same st of join, work this round in the back bars of the hdc stitches again,
ch1, sc x21 in the back bars only, sk 1, sc x21 in the back bars only, sk last st, sl st into first sc to join (42)
R8. ch1, *sc, sk 2, 5dc, sk 2,* repeat between * 6 more times, sl st into first sc to join (42)
R9. ch2, 2dc in same st below ch, sk 2, sl st in to back loop only of next st (middle st of 5dc), *sk 2, 5dc in the sc st, sk 2, sl st in to back loop only,* finish with sk 2 and 3dc in the same starting st going over the beginning ch2, sl st into first dc to join, fasten off and weave in ends (42)
To tell the front from back, the dc stitches made on R3. will be on the back of the suit. The joining seam would be behind the Gonk's left arm. Just pull over the Gonk's head to fit.
Work this piece in continuous rounds using a stitch marker to keep your starting point. To fit comfortably over the hair, start the helmet with a hook half a size bigger than you used for the body. Using Grey yarn, start with a magic ring,
R1. sc into ring 6 times (6)
R2. inc in each st (12)
R3. sc, inc - 6 times (18)
R4. sc in each st (18)
R5. sc x2, inc - 6 times (24)
R6.-R7. sc in each st (24 for 2 rounds)
R8. sc x3, inc - 6 times, sl st to join after this round (30)
R9. Here we add a round of small bobble stitches to give a bumpy detail. The bobble stitches are made by working dc3tog stitches in the same place (yo, hook through st, yo & pull through 2 loops, yo, hook through same st, yo & pull through 2 loops, yo, hook through same st, yo & pull through 2 loops, yo & pull through all loops on hook). You will probably find you need to push the bobbles out, for them to pop outwards to the right side of the helmet.
work dc3tog in the first st, sc x2, *dc3tog, sc x2,* repeat between * 8 more times, sl st into first st to join (30)
R10. sc x13, hdc, 2dc x2, hdc, sc x13, sl st to join (32) The dc stitches of this round makes a small peak for the front of the helmet.
R11. Work a round of crab stitch to add a lip around the edge. crab st (sc in reverse) all the way around, sl st to join and fasten off, weave in ends.
Some of our other crochet patterns
Work this piece in continuous rounds using a stitch marker to keep your starting point. Start with a magic ring,
R1. sc x5 into mr (5)
R2.-R9. sc in each st (5 for 8 rounds) Fasten off leaving a tail, use your yarn needle to weave end through the 5 stitches to close, secure and weave in end.
We will start with the middle, then work the pointy end, rejoin to middle and work the flat end.
Step 1. Start by chaining 7 and sl st to beginning to form a circle, sc x8 into the circle, sl st into first sc to join, (8 sts for the middle ring)
Step 2. sc in the front loops only in the next 2 st, turn and sc in the previous 2 unworked back loops (a round of 4 sts for the base of pointy end)
Step 3. sc in each of the previous 4 st (4)
Step 4. dec x2 (2) Cut yarn and fasten off.
Step 5. Go back to the middle ring (6 unused sts) from the last used st, sk 2, join yarn by working a sc in the front loop only of the 3rd st, sc in front loop only of next st, turn and sc in the previous 2 back loops (4 sts for the base of flat end) Step 6. sc in each of the previous 4 st twice around (4 for 2 rounds)
Step 7. Fasten off leaving a tail, using your yarn needle, pinch the end flat and whip stitch across. Weave in ends. Push the handle through the middle ring to attach the head.