Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky
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This crochet pattern is written and designed by Ling Ryan for Hooked On Patterns. Copyright of this pattern belongs to Ling Ryan/Hooked On Patterns. You are not permitted to copy, share, upload or redistribute this pattern in any way, this includes making video tutorials. It is for personal use only. You may sell products you have personally created from using this pattern, mass production is not permitted. You must credit Ling Ryan or Hooked On Patterns.com as the designer if you do sell your finished products. Full T&Cs. Thank you.
Crochet these fun little stuffed owls, perfect for owl lovers of any age! You can make them in any colours you choose, use 3 colours for the best effect.
This pattern is written using US crochet terms.
This pattern can be made with any yarn size. The yarn size you choose will determine the size of your finished owl. Keep to the same size yarn in 3 different colours for each owl. As an approximate guide, DK yarn - 9cm tall using 4mm & 3.5mm hooks, UK chunky yarn - 12cm tall using 6mm & 5mm hooks. This pattern gives instructions for crochet eyes as well as the option to use safety eyes.
To help you read this pattern, the commas represent each stitch or the number of stitches after x. For example; [sc, inc,] would mean sc into next st, increase in next st. Or [sc x3, inc,] would mean sc each into the next 3 stitches, increase in the next st.
You will need:
3 complimenting colours of yarn (1 main body colour -Yarn A, 2 feather colours Yarn B and Yarn C),
A suitable hook for size of yarn and another 0.5 - 1 size smaller
Some toy stuffing
A pair of safety eyes/buttons/or some black and eye coloured yarn
A yarn needle & scissors
Stitches/terms used in this pattern:
(mr) Magic ring
(sc) Single crochet
(hdc) Half Double crochet
(dc) Double crochet
(inc) Increase - 2sc in same st
(dec) Decrease (invisible) - hook through front loop only of next 2 stitches, yarn over and pull a loop through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops.
(fs) Feather shell stitch - hdc, 3dc, hdc in the same stitch to form a shell stitch.
Numbers shown in ( ) indicates the number of stitches you should have at the end of the row/round.
Choose your main body colour yarn, this will be Yarn A. You will be working in a continuous round without joining at the end of each round, use a stitch marker to keep your place.
R1. Start with a magic ring, sc into mr 6 times (6)
R2. 2sc into each st (12)
R3. *sc, inc,* repeat between * to end of round (18)
R4. sc x2, inc, sc x2, inc, sc x5, inc, sc x2, inc, sc x3 (22)
R5. sc x3, inc, sc x2, inc, sc x7, inc, sc x2, inc, sc x4 (26)
R6. sc x3, inc x2, sc x2, inc x2, sc x7, inc x2, sc x2, inc x2, sc x4 (34)
R7. sc x4, inc, sc x2, inc, sc x2, inc, sc x10, inc, sc x2, inc, sc x2, inc, sc x6 (40)
R8. sc x4, inc, sc x8, inc, sc x10, inc, inc, sc x8, inc, sc x6 (44)
R9. - R18. sc into each st of round (44 for 10 rounds)
R19. *sc x9 , dec,* repeat between * to end of round (40)
R20. - R24. sc into each st of round (40 for 5 rounds)
R25. sc x13, fasten off leaving a long tail (approx. 40cm), this
will bring you into position for your "ear" tuff corner ready to
The open top of the body piece will be joined straight across later, pinch this closed with the yarn tail of the body piece as the end point. To find the front side of the body, the yarn tail will sit on the right. (see last picture above)
Choose your next yarn colour to create a beak, this will be Yarn B. Cut a length and use your yarn needle to embroider the beak. Find the centre of the front and count 10 rows down from the top of the body piece for the beak starting point. With your needle inside the body piece, come up through the starting point, bring the yarn up 3 rows, there will be a sc stitch post inline at this point, go in to the right of this post, come out to the left of the same post and bring the yarn down through the point you started, come back out just to the right of the top point piercing through the body post, go back through the starting point, come out just to the left of the other top point and back through the starting point, come back through the centre of the top points and back through the starting point to finish.
Feathers are created with a combination of (fs) feather shell stitches [hdc, 3dc,hdc] followed by a sl st. You will create a foundation chain on the body piece to add your feathers to by slip stitching into the body piece. The chain stitches which will hold the feather shells will be 2 single crochets long and you will sl st back through the body piece after each fs. Use your remaining yarn colour to start, this will be Yarn C. Alternate between Yarn C and Yarn B for each row of feathers. Join your yarn to the post above the beak on the right side and work the slip stitches towards the left of the body. From the beak, work up the body piece creating the number of slip stitch foundation chains for the number of feather shells needed, starting in the body posts as follows:
Row 1. 1 feather shell, start in post above beak on the right.
Row 2. 2 feather shells, start one post to the right of previous.
Row 3. 3 feather shells, start one post to the right of previous.
Row 4. 4 feather shells, start one post to the right of previous.
Row 5. 3 feather shells, start one post to the right of previous.
Row 6. 3 feather shells, start in the post above the previous.
Row 7. 3 feather shells, start in the post above the previous.
Add the foundation chains by starting with a slip knot on your hook in the feather colour, hook under the body piece post, yarn over and pull through a loop, sl st this through your slip knot on hook, pull your starting slip knot tight. Pull the loop on hook long to allow for reaching over the length of 2 stitches, skip the next sc of the body piece and go under the next sc post, yarn over and pull through a loop and sl st through the long loop on hook. Repeat this process for the number of foundation stitches required. After your last required sl st, ch1 and pull the stitch tight to hold the last sl st in place. With each foundation chain you create, turn and add the feathers following this process. fs [hdc, 3dc, hdc] into the long slip stitch, sl st under the post of body piece (these will be the same posts you used to create the foundation chains). Repeat this process for the length of foundation chain finishing with a slip stitch through the same post of body piece you started the foundation from. Cut yarn and pull through to finish off and pull both tail ends through to the inside of body piece.
Work each line of feathers separately, alternating colours as you go.
Turning the body piece upside down, continue with the feathers on back of the body. Start 1 body row up from the open edge, pinch the body opening closed to find the corresponding centre point. Using Yarn C (same colour as you finished the front feathers with) join 1 sc post over to the right of the last row on the front and create a sl st foundation of 4, this should create 4 feathers which will look centred to the front when closed.
Continue down the body with feather placements as follows:
Row 1. 4 feather shells
Row 2. 5 feather shells, start one post to the right of previous.
Row 3. 6 feather shells, start one post to the right of previous.
Row 4. 6 feather shells, start in the post above the previous.
Row 5. 6 feather shells, start in the post above the previous.
Turn your work the right way up for the next row
Row 6. 7 feather shells, start one post to the right of where the previous row ends, create the foundation slip stitches as before going in the opposite direction, turn and sc loosely into each sl st, ch1 and pull tight, turn and add the feather shells as before into the sc stitches, sl st around the sc posts below after each feather shell. This will make the last row sit further out from the body.
From Row 6 of the back feathers count 9 body piece rows down for placement to start the tail feathers. The tail piece will be 3 feather shells wide and sit centred below. See picture for placement point reference and follow these steps.
1. Using Yarn B, join a 3 sl st foundation chain as before
2. turn and loosely sc in each chain st, ch1 and pull tight
3. turn and repeat step 2.
4. turn and add feather shells, slip stitching around the posts of sc below, fasten off and weave in the end and pull through the starting tail.
5. Join Yarn C to the right sc post above the feathers, sl st across each sc post of row to create a foundation chain
6. turn and add feather shells, slip stitching around the posts below, fasten off and weave in the ends.
7. Join Yarn B and create a 3 sl st foundation chain as before into the body piece in the row above the tail piece.
8. turn and add feathers as before, fasten off and pull through ends.
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Add the eyes:
You may choose any type of eyes you like. Here I have used 18mm safety eyes with a crochet circle in Yarn B to make them bigger for this owl. For the surrounding circles, I started with a magic ring and sc 7 into the ring, joining and pulling the magic ring closed around the post of the safety eyes for size, removed the eyes and increased in each stitch creating a circle of 14 stitches.
You can just use safety eyes if you like, or even use buttons as eyes.
You may choose to make crochet eyes to attach.
To do this, with white yarn or your chosen eye colour,
R1. mr and sc 6 into ring and join the round by sl st in first sc (6)
R2. inc in each st, sl st to join (12)
R3. *sc, inc* repeat 6 times, sl st to join, fasten off leaving a long tail.
Using black yarn, embroider over the inner circle for pupils or make semi-circles for sleeping owls. If you choose to any kind of crochet for the eyes, leave a long tail when you fasten off to use for attaching to the body. Attach your eyes on either side of the beak, ensuring they are on the same row and level before securing in place.
Finishing the body:
Stuff the body leaving a little space at the top allowing room for the edges to close. Using your yarn needle and the body tail you have left long, whip stitch straight across the top of opening. Leave the excess tail yarn for later. Add the final row of feathers to cover the join. Using Yarn B, continue as before above the Row 7 of the front feather rows. Join to the post above row 7 creating a 3 slip stitch foundation chain, turn and add feathers. To pull in your ends, insert your hook through a hole down the side of the body and come out beside your ends and pull them into the body.
Shape the "ear" tuffs. Fold the sides so that the join seam is in the middle of inner "ear". Tack into place with your yarn needle and remaining body tail at the base of the triangle shape formed. Bring the yarn through the body to tack the other side. You may be happy leaving the owl as it is at this point, a little rounder (like top right pic), or you can shape the body a little more (like bottom right pic). To do this, slip the yarn needle down inside the body coming out 3 rows below where you placed the "ear" tack, wrap around the post and back in threading through the body and coming out the opposite side, wrap around a post and back into the body, coming out at the back just below your feathers, pull the the desired shape and secure by tying to the point your yarn is and threading the yarn back in to hide.
You can leave the "ears" as they are or add fluffy tuffs in your feather colours. Do this by cutting 2 lengths of each colour (approximately 8cm is enough), take a smaller hook and pierce through the top of the "ear" points, take 1 of each colour yarn lengths, hold together and pull through the centre of the yarns to make a loop on your hook, now pull all for ends through the loop and pull tight. Trim the ends to your desired length and if you would like them fluffier and your yarn type allows this, unravel the strands of the yarns.
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For the wings, you will be working joined rounds.
Slip stitch into the first stitch of the round to join and start the next round by working into the stitch at the bottom of the join.
Start with Yarn B,
R1. sc 6 into a magic ring, sl st to join to first sc (6)
R2. inc in each st, sl st to join, fasten off (12)
R3. Join Yarn C to any st, *sc, inc* repeat between * total of 4 times, hdc, 2dc, hdc, 2sc, sl st to join, fasten off (18)
R4. Join Yarn B to the st in the centre of the 2dc in R3., skip the st at bottom of join, sc, inc, *sc x2, inc,* repeat between * 4 times, sc x3, sc into missed join st, sl st to join (23)
R5. Turn your work, ch1 and pull the chain tight, miss the first st, *fs into next st, sl st into next,* repeat 3 times to create 3 feathers and fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching later.
R6. Add a row of feathers on top by joining Yarn C to the post next to the fasten off on R5., looking at the posts you see in the same Yarn C colour, skip the next 2 posts, sl st around the next post, skip next post, sl st around next post, skip next 2 posts, sl st around inside of the edge st, ch1 and pull tight (creating a 3 sl st foundation chain for feathers, red markers in picture shows placement)
R7. turn and fs into each st, sl st around the same posts as foundation chain after each fs, fasten off and weave in ends.
Follow instructions R1. - R3. as for the left wing.
R4. Join Yarn B to st left of last round join, *sc x2, inc* repeat between * 4 times, sc, inc, sc x4, sl st to join (23)
Work R5. - R7. same as left wing.
Attach the wings:
To tell the left and right wings apart, the dc stitches of R3. will be by the top edge of the feathers. Attach the wings using the tail ends you have left long after R5. Position the wings pointing the feathers slightly downwards to the back of the body. Whip stitch around the rounded section of the wing, lightly stuff the centre of the wing and finish attaching across under the feathers.
You have now completed your owl. Why not play around with your owls by using different types of eyes each time? Or even changing the number and placements of the feathers for different looks?